Footsteps. Rustling sounds. All of a sudden I’m woken up by the sound of someone — something — walking around the campsite, the sounds of non-human footfall.
I’m not consciously aware of this, it’s not my rational brain telling me, “Oh, that’s the sound of non-human footsteps”. It’s my instinctive, animal brain telling me. It’s my instincts waking me up, tearing me away from sleep and thrusting me into wide-awakedness within a couple seconds.
I check my watch — an automatic reflex, I guess — it’s 3:31 AM. And I hear them again, not through the foggy brain of sleep, but wide awake now: the footsteps and rustling sounds of something big and not human at my campsite, only a few feet away from my small tent. As they get closer, I can hear the breathing, and I tear myself out of my sleeping bag, ready to jump or run, if necessary. But I sit still, frozen, listening, straining my ears. It’s right outside my tent now, I can hear the sniffing. It sounds like a big dog sniffing, but I know it’s not a big dog.
Time seems to stand still. And I’m frozen, too, my body is frozen in fright. I’m not sure what I should do, I don’t know if the same rule of “making oneself big and loud” from the daytime would apply to a nighttime encounter with a bear. So, I just wait, immobile, holding my breath, with my heart rate through the ceiling.
Eventually, the sniffing sounds stop, the footsteps get fainter and fade away, stopping, at last. And after a few more minutes, I start breathing a little more deeply again, and my heart rate starts going back down to normal, at last. And I look at my watch again: it’s 3:47 AM.
Somehow those were the longest and the briefest 16 minutes of my life.
Rationally, I know there’s nothing to really fear from the black bears we have here in Colorado. I am told they are more scared of us than we of them. That all they want is food. That they don’t prey on us, they eat berries and nuts and roots, and are only drawn to the smells of our food and drinks and lotions — which I had placed judiciously in the bear box. Everything. Every last item. Except for the gallon water bottle that I had got at the gas station earlier that day. I placed that right outside my small tent, right next to the flapper that opens as a door, in case I got thirsty during the night — which I know I do — nearby for me to reach without having to venture far (for fear of bears) but also not inside my tent, so as to be safer. I thought the gallon water bottle from the gas station wouldn’t really smell. I hadn’t thought that having been in a store it would probably be shrouded in odors; I had forgotten that I had drunk from that bottle myself when rinsing out my mouth from toothpaste earlier that night. So, that bottle probably smelled very interesitng to a bear — and that’s probably what the bear was sniffing right outside my tent, where I could hear it, by my feet.
Even though I didn’t see it, I know it was a bear (I actually got confirmation from the camp-host the next day when I reported it). And it was my first encounter ever with a bear.
I’ve seen plenty of pictures of them from friends and neighborhoods in this past decade of living in, or visiting, California, Colorado, Alaska. I even heard a bear while hiking with one of my buddies here in Colorado a couple years ago. But I have never come so physically close to a bear, and definitely not by myself.
It was terrifying. And the fear, unfortunately, stayed with me for the rest of my trip, crippling my ability to go on the big hikes to the alpine lakes that I had planned. Too many trees, the woods too dense, and the hiking trails too empty of any other human. It was just me and the dense forest around a steep, technical trail. I kept jumping at every sound I heard — usually just birds flying out of a tree or bush, squirrels climbing or chipmunks scurrying. But my nerves just couldn’t take it. I felt too vulnerable, too small. Too alone.
The loneliness hurt, even physically, on my trip last week. I could feel it in my chest. It made me feel lost and small. I had an extremely keen sense of really being alone in this deserted campground, on these trails with no other humans hiking.
It wasn’t my first trip by myself. On the contrary, I’ve been traveling by myself for years, decades, at this point. I’m used to it and, often, I enjoy it. Although, admittedly, I used to enjoy it more — treasure it, crave it even — when it was an option among many. Now, it feels like it isn’t really a choice. The choice for me now, too often, is between going on a trip by myself or not going at all. So, I just go by myself. But being alone, time & again, is painful.
And last week, the pain was more intense than it had been in a while.
Partly, because I was still processing and feeling the rejection/abandonment from Bert’s change of plan regarding our tentative trip to Utah together in October. That still stung sharply.
Partly, because I still had fresh in mind the memories from my recent trips with my buddy Bert, in June & July, camping and climbing and hiking and generally “adventuring” together. I thought I had found an “adventure buddy” again, at last, and had reveled in the joy. But then, he changed his mind about the Utah trip, and things went back to “normal” for me, i.e., traveling by myself as the only option I have. So, I felt the loss keenly and missed his company. And the memories being so recent made the comparison, the loss, the lack, ever more intense and painful.
But the pain was very intense also because of a more general sense of frustration and lack in my life. There’s the craving for an adventure buddy or travel companions, from the human, emotional viewpoint of sharing and connection. This big hole in my life. But there’s also the practical aspect of it being so much harder to do things by oneself. If I hadn’t been alone last week, I would have gone on the hikes to the alpine lakes, despite the presence of bears in the woods around the trails. I know that for sure. So, being unable to do something I really wanted to do, something that makes me feel happy and alive, something that actually is the reason I want to live, is extremely painful and frustrating. And it can get to the point of raising the question: “What’s the point of life if I cannot do these things I love, these things I crave? How much longer can I take this? How much longer can I keep trying (& keep being disappointed)?”
The shooting stars helped, though. This was what I have come to call “my Perseids trip”. It used to be normal for us to watch shooting stars in mid-August when I was growing up in Europe. That was the time of summer vacation, when we were in the mountains or at the beach, so it was easy for us to just sit outside at night and watch for shooting stars, “la notte di San Lorenzo”. But then, we grew up, life got in the way, and the workaholic habits of the U.S., especially, got in the way. Until last year.
Last year, I restarted this habit. For myself alone, though, now. I don’t have friends available to go out watching for shooting stars, taking a few days off to find a dark sky and star-gaze. But I’ve started doing it again anyway.
We got a lot of rain at Lake Granby last week, and cloudy nights. But I was determined: I was there to look for shooting stars, so I’d try my best to see some.
On my first night there (the night that I was later woken up by the bear at 3:31 AM), I woke up by myself to pee shortly after midnight. The sky was extremely clear (& I wasn’t worried about bears, yet), so I took my camping chair, wrapped myself up in warm layers, and sat gazing up at the sky, losing track of time, losing myself in the Milky Way above me. And then, after the first shooting star, losing myself in the thrill of seeing one more, one more, just one more… until I had seen a dozen of them and my neck ached and I started feeling sleepy, as even the sheer, childish joy gave way to tiredness.
On the second night, I was exhausted. It had rained before dinner, so I had brought my sleeping bag & pad from the small tent to my car, partly also because my nervous system needed a break to get back to baseline after the bear encounter the previous night and the constant sense of threat from bears while hiking during the day. So, that night, I just let myself sleep and I slept in the next morning and took a rest day, going for walks along the lake and sitting to read in my car when, later that afternoon and evening, we got several hours of pouring rain.
But, despite the afternoon storms, I set my alarm for 3 AM on the third night, in hope of seeing some more stars, especially given that was supposed to be the “Perseids peak night” between 12-13th August. At 3 AM, my alarm went off. I felt extremely sleepy and almost turned over to go back to sleep, but just at that moment a big, bright meteor streaked across the sky. “OK”, I thought to myself, “that’s the sign!” So, once again wrapping myself in warm layers, I got out of my car and craned my neck for shooting stars. The sky was pretty cloudy, though, and I was still shaken from the bear encounter, so I just stood close my car, for a short while, until I had seen half a dozen shooting stars, and then went back to sleep. Despite the tiredness and anxiety, though, the joy was still present, and still growing at every meteor I saw.
As I stood there sky-gazing, I forgot about everything else — the ache in my neck, the pain in my soul, the cold, the fear of bears — everything vanished except for the excitement of maybe, maybe, maybe seeing another shooting star… One more, just one more, please please please…